At first glance, you might think the two neighboring mountainous countries should be very similar: the same region, both located at high altitudes, both so-called STAN countries and thus part of the former Soviet Union. However, as soon as we cross the border, we realize that the two countries could hardly be more different: the barren Tajikistan with its monochrome mountain formations, and now the green lovely Kyrgyzstan. In summer, many hills are covered with yurts, countless horses, cows, and sheep. Water promises life, and there’s plenty of it here!
First, we head via the Allay Valley for Tulpan Lake near the Pic Lenin Base Camp. Green meadows, yurts, lakes along gently rolling hills as far as the eye can see, and then… the stunning view of the over 7,000-meter-high Pic Lenin, located right on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan! A dream spot, so that for the first time on our trip we stay in one place for three nights! A hike toward Pic Lenin (but not up, of course), a meal at the nearby yurt camp (the dining experience in the beautifully furnished yurt is more exciting than the meal itself 😉), a bit of further travel planning… and so the days pass quite quickly.
After spending over two weeks traveling at an altitude of at least 3,000 meters, we now descend to the plains towards Osh: Kyrgyzstan’s second-largest city welcomes us back with civilization, shopping opportunities, dust and heat. And so, after the necessary stops for supplies, we set off again. Although we’ve left the Pamir region, the journey continues with spectacular mountain roads and views: over the Kodomo Pass and the Ak Talaa Pass we first climb up steeply and then descend again. We’re lucky with the weather: with the exception of two heavy afternoon thunderstorms at the Ak Talaa Pass it stays dry… the tracks here are so spectacularly carved into the hillside that they can quickly become impassable in bad weather due to landslides etc. An excellent off-road paradise and dream campsites can be found around every corner; the few Kyrgyz who live here in their yurts in the summer are without exception very friendly.
In addition to its fascinating lush mountains, Kyrgyzstan is also known for its lakes. Lake Son Kul lies at an altitude of 3,000 meters, with correspondingly spectacular ascents and descents, along which it sometimes looks like Switzerland: crystal-clear streams, conifers, striking rock formations…it feels like at home, and perhaps that’s why we like it here so much! The lake itself is surrounded by flat meadows, countless horses, cows, and yurts.
Lake Issyk Kul is one of the largest mountain lakes in the world (10 times the size of Lake Constance) and offers a spectrum of contrasts: Caribbean-like sandy beaches with turquoise, very clean and clear water, and a completely different hinterland with the Tian Shan Mountains and over 5,000-meter-high, snow-capped mountains with deeply cut alpine valleys. So we constantly drive back and forth between the sea and the mountains, go hiking, and admire the amazing rock formations in the “Canyon of Forgotten River,” the “Fairy Tale Canyon,” and the “Seven Bulls.”
After the spectacular Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, the completely different Kyrgyzstan is undoubtedly another highlight of our trip!
bonjour….superbe, bravo.