After all the cultural city sightseeing and high temperatures in Uzbekistan, we’re looking forward to nature and mountains with cool temperatures. Crossing the small border into Tajikistan is straightforward, and as soon as we entered the country, we turn from the wide Zerafshan river valley into the first side valley of the Fan Mountains and drive up the track to the 7 Lakes. The landscape is spectacular, and the higher we climb, the more impressive it becomes. Between the 3rd and 4th lake, however, we turn around – the track along the 4th lake is simply too narrow and has a rocky overhang. But we find a nice place to stay overnight near by a stream between the 2nd and 3rd lake. There aren’t many alternatives here, at least for large vehicles! The next day, we unpack our Shujoo quad bike and drive stress-free to the end of the track at the 7th lake. There, we take a wonderful hike along the lakeshore and are back again before the afternoon thunderstorm.
The next side valley leads to the Artuch Alm, and of course, we can’t miss that either! The drive through the small village of Artuch is a bit difficult for Shujaa’s size, and some of the very friendly villagers look on us in disbelief at what’s happening here! The Tajiks are generally very friendly and open people: we’re waved to from the roadside everywhere, and we notice again and again how happy the people, especially in the remote mountain villages, are to see the few foreign tourists. Some even speak a little German 😉. The next morning, with glorious weather, we ride our quad for several kilometers to the starting point of our hike up to the Kuli Kalon Lakes located at an altitude of 3,000 meters. The climb through a narrow and very stony valley is strenuous, especially due to the altitude – but what awaits us up on the plateau is something we’ve never seen before: green meadows, with streams meandering through fine gravel beds that connect the numerous lakes, with over 5,000-meter-high mountains in front with their glacier cliffs, and some scattered and friendly alpine farmers. Superbe views and atmosphere! After the descent, we’re glad we drove with our quad Shujoo to the very end of the valley, saving ourselves a few kilometers of hiking back. When we return to Shujaa, an extended Tajik family awaits us: while the son washes his car in the nearby stream, the grandfather chats enthusiastically with Karin in broken German, a bottle of beer in his hand 😉.
The third valley we visit in the Fan Mountains leads to Lake Iskanderkul, located at an altitude of 2,200 meters. It’s so beautiful here that even the Tajik president had his weekend villa built, surrounded by stunning nature and various heliports. The villa, however, looks rather neglected, and we plan to use one of the heliports on a peninsula as a great overnight spot with a view of the lake and mountains… until the countless mosquitoes chase us away from this dream spot and force us back to the other side of the lake. Here, we also have great views, are close to the waterfall and, above all, can be outside again! The next day, I go mountain biking in the beautiful back valleys of Lake Iskanderkul while Karin is cleaning Shujaa.
The onward journey to the capital, Dushanbe, takes us through the infamous Anzob Tunnel: it’s 5 km long, unlit, and has no ventilation… with corresponding consequences for visibility. However, we didn’t find the passage as bad as everyone else reports… but it might be a different story for cyclists!
Dushanbe is a city in transition: all old buildings are being demolished and replaced with magnificent new structures that clearly demonstrate the power claim of the autocratic president who has ruled for many years… everything is financed by the Chinese, for whom Dushanbe is an important base within their strategic “New Silk Road” project. It’s very hot again; we complete the necessary formalities (tourist registration and permit for the Pamir Mountains) and enjoy the numerous, shady, and very beautiful parks. At night, everything is colorfully illuminated. After a big shopping trip, which must last for the upcoming Pamir crossing, we are glad to be leaving this city again after just one day.
